Wednesday 17 August 2011

Kyoto in Summer

It is hot in Kyoto in the summer. The city sits like a footwell below the mountains and gets no cooling breeze. The heat climbs and the humidity has no respite. Once you get over 30 degrees it's difficult to actually do anything. Moving around an incredibly crowded city in 38Cs is hard work. But the rewards in Kyoto are enough for the most sceptical sight-see-er. The Winding walkway up and up and up to Khyomizu Temple tempts you onwards through the crowds past the airconditioned sanctuaries of treasure shops and tourist cafes. Each bend disappoints you're sweating body but entices the curious spirt certain that itf it's this difficult then it will be worth it. To see the floating floor and to feel so high above the city it is. To know that you are in history while you can see modernity calms you somewhere inside where the ever recycled atoms that created you live.



The Golden Temple offers itself up for your disappointment but however small, however crowded the sight of a it sat amongst the pond is magical; a painting that you can walk around. The moss and the trees and the stillness of the water dare you to try and stir up all the years that this has meant something to so many people. And if you're immune to all that then the chanting monks bring it all back home.

Ryioma Temple offers a tiny Zen rock garden with a soft wood floored veranda to view it from. A veranda that somehow catches a current of cool air. It would be heaven just to sit there alone and never have to move. The peace is tangible almost electric except for it's stillness.


Inbetween there was the ever glorious Sakura and Kaede Ryokan to stay at. Cool, peaceful and thoughtful and the glamour of Gion with the chance glimpse of a Maiko real or otherwise. I can't say that it's the best city to visit everyone has their favourite for different reasons but it's certainly like no other.

Monday 1 August 2011

The Visit

This past week has been a rush through bitesize Japanese culture. Since our friends arrived we have been Washi paper shopping, Sushi eating, Festival going, Neon-City clothes shopping, Temple visiting, Museum strolling, Onsen soaking and Castle viewing to mention a few. Our day trip to Inuyama was perfect with blue skies and sunshine. We walked to the top of the castle via it's steep wooden stairways feeling the smooth shine of the wood underfoot. After a lunch of Japanese curry we went to an architectural museum called Meji Mura and had drinks in the relocated Tokyo Imperial Hotel.
Kaminoho Onsen held a view of the mountains and at ten in the morning we pretty much had the hot srpings to ourselves.
As we left Nagoya in the dusk we got the full hit of the famous Japanese neon which was rejuvenating after a day of heavy shopping topped off by a beer and Jazz music in the park by Nagoya's T.V tower. All very enjoyable although if you think that's impressive the visitors are currently in Kyoto and have Tokyo and Mount Fuji yet to see!
 Inuyama Castle.
 The three of us in the hotel.
A traditional Kabuki theatre moved to Meji Mura from Osaka.